I too use the DC 4 or DC 3, but I also take a selfmade strop (old leather belt glued on a piece of wood), with a bit of compound on it. I tend to strop the knife every evening after it has had some use during the day. It seems like I don’t even need to retouch the edge, it just stays shaving sharp by only using the strop. It weighs about the same as the DC4 and DC3 combined. It's perfect for makers or tinkerers who want a pointing device that's as customisable and individual as their keyboard.

Smurf Poo - Metal polishing Abrasive Compound Bolpol - Blue - Smurf Poo - Metal polishing Abrasive Compound

At home a good Japanese Waterstone is a good choice, but they can be high maintenance, and work best with another stone to create the slurry which does the sharpening. Either way, I just wanted to give my story of my field sharpening struggles. I am a new reader to this blog and am already a huge fan of your unbiased and utilitarian look at gear and skills. Thanks for the quality read! It’s good to hear from you. The tip about turning the case inside out is a good one, particularly if you don’t habitually wear a leather belt. The GB stone does become a little less aggressive over time but you are right – it has its place. You are only as sharp as your tools… For info, many things, pastes and waxes included are mixed with hydrocarbons which evaporate and the whole lot dries out, without them being compatible with water, vinegar, or oil.

For those in the know:,does the type of stropping compound that you load up the strop with make much / any difference? I use autosol on one strop that I made myself and smurf poo on the other (bought) one, but I see folks using powders that are made into a paste and even a spray. Worthwhile or a waste of money? I really appreciated your comment as I have been unhappy with the quality of my (relatively new) DC4 too. Can you suggest where I might get hold of a Spyderco Double Stuff? On tour I´m using a LAP Stone. It´s a thin stainless steel stripe, one side with a course and the other side with a fine diamond coating. Works well on knives and axes and it´s very lightweight.

Smurf Poo, help please | BushcraftUK Community Dried out Smurf Poo, help please | BushcraftUK Community

Thanks for the fast response. If I could only take one it would be the coarse/fine one as it would be the best combo for being able to re-profile an edge and put a decent edge on as well, although not the super shaving sharp edge like most of us like. These little hand ones are really so light and small that you could take two like usually do. I also take the fine/extra-fine one and this allows me to put a little sharper edge on. I have used them both dry and wet but usually use a little water with them. I highly recommend giving them a try to see what you think. I use them for all of my tools including my axe and even to touch up the saw teeth. That means modifying the design is as simple as changing some numbers in the spreadsheet. That brings us up to version 4. One thing I found useful is a mini chefs steel, just to give that extra bit of bite to my blades. (No need for a car window) Its around 4″ long and sits nicely down the side of a DC4 slip case so always to hand. On a summer canoe journey in the same area, however, your need for firewood will be much lower but you may have to clear portage trails.

First Choose Your Cutting Tools

Thanks very much once again for taking the time to explain everything in much more detail than anyone else has!