This particular model; the MF100S is the basic On/Off version. It can be paired with Manrose 1361 remote humidistat and Manrose 1350 speed controller. Key Features I haven't investigated at all yet, but one thing he did fit is an isolator switch for the fan, so that will make working on it easier. With regards to joining the ducting, is duct tape sufficient, or should I be looking at some kind of adhesive for a better longer lasting fit?

High air flows are achieved through flexible duct. Compact overall dimensions. 3 speed fan settings, selectable at installation

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Easy installation and maintenance with the fan assembly easily removed from rigid ducting installations using the specially designed construction. High quality ball bearing, long life motors, continuously rate and warranted for a minimum of 30,000 hours or 3 years. Easy installation and maintenance - Fan assembly easily removed from rigid ducting installations using specially designed construction Fitted with a high quality ball bearing motor, MF100S is continuously rated and guaranteed for a minimum of 30,000 hours or 3 years. The MF100S inline fan is fully BEAB approved, building regulations compliant and has is IPX4 rated. Manrose MF100S Features

The Manrose MF100Sis a powerful inline extractor fan which is ductable up to 12m. An inline fan is installed in the loft or ceiling void above the bathroom (or kitchen etc). Ducting is attached to each end of the fan with one length going to an internal grille in the ceiling of the bathroom and the other going to a grille on the external wall, soffit or roof. He put the vent in the middle of the bathroom, instead of above the shower, and has placed the fan a decent distance away from the actual vent hole in the ceiling, and then ducted to the side of the house - he's also used (to much) flexible ducting........

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Class II - double insulation - no earth required. Fully building code compliant. Fully BEAB approved And re-visiting my mention of the bigger more beefy fans, would it be wise/sensible to go for 150mm ducting and then use a reducer if I can resurrect the current 100T. MF100S benefits from 3 speed settings which can be set via dip-switch at installation. This allows the fan to operate at an appropriate rate for user requirements. This particular model; the MF100T, features an over-run timer that keeps the fan running for a period of up to 20 minutes (set upon installation), after power off, to ensure all moisture or stale air is extracted. hope you don't mind me resurrecting an old thread, but I have an MF100T that has just stopped working.

I'm also wondering if I should try and insulate it from the joists somehow, maybe mount a piece of wood on some foam that goes onto the joists, and then mount the fan onto the piece of wood that bridges between them? We've always been dissapointed with the performance, especially after he told us it was overkill, and we've put it on maximum timer and maximum speed. Over the years I’ve always used 4” fans personally and never had a problem with excessive condensation or steam (except when something needs cleaning or clearing) despite the lengthy showers the family seem to like.I would say that a fan rated somewhere around 200m3 per hour is probably sufficient provided it’s installed in a way that means it can get somewhere close to that in use. The easiest way to achieve that is to make the ducts and grills bigger. But don’t go too large as then the air speed will be very low and this could lead to condensation on “dead spots” for example on bends.

Rated to IPX4. Easy installation and maintenance with the fan assembly easily removed from rigid ducting installations using the specially designed constructionThe isolator switch works, which is a bonus, the electrics at the top had no water ingress or moisture inside. We have a small bathroom, big standard 1930's one, so do you think the 100T when ducted properly should be sufficient?