If the scratches on your build plate are very deep, or you have gouges or low spots in the plate, you might need to sand it. Sanding removes all the scratches and low spots while giving your build plate additional texture that leads to better print adhesion. If one had dealt attentively with the topic, one would have realized that one must print out a spacer with the old platform BEFORE modification, which must be inserted between the flag and threaded spindle. Additionally you need to replace the 2 screws with matching ones, because the original ones are too short, of course. While sanding your build plate, always use gloves and a mask to avoid inhaling metal particles. Also, most users recommend that you grip your build plate in a way that ensures the pressure across its surface is uniform. If the Z-axis can stop normally, it means that the limit switch can be triggered without any problem, but the limit switch stopper is too short to trigger the limit switch when the build plate is installed on the printer. You can put a 1-2mm spacer between the screws and the limit switch stopper as shown in the below pictures to fix this problem. (the limit switch stopper is at the bottom of the z-axis connecting shaft) You can rotate the build plate and continue sanding for a more evenly sanded build plate. To know whether your build plate is sanded evenly, you should see the surface has no visible low spots with a uniform surface color.

For this purpose I used 2 super strong neodymium magnets in the size 20x40x5mm, which I had lying around here and glued them with super glue on the TOP of the platform. The home function of the printer does not ensure that the last set zero point is directly approached. Instead it works like this:Thanks to a specially patterned surface, our steel plate has improved adhesion compared to most original platforms, which greatly increases the success rate!

Run them over the scratches on the build plate and determine where the gloves catch on the plate. This is where you need to remove the burrs. Step 4: Once the build platform stops, adjust the platform to keep it in the center position. Then fasten the screws with the wrench. There are several ways you can still fix and use a scratched build plate: Some of these methods include:As an alternative, there are recently the flex plates. These thin metal sheets are held to the platform with the help of a magnetic intermediate layer. After printing you can detach the flex plate from the printing platform, bent it and your model will detach from the flex plate easy. -easy peasy Step 6: After the above leveling is complete, set the current Z axis position as the initial height of the first layer position. The 3DJake Flexible Buildplate System was specially designed for easy removal of the finished parts. A raft helps prevent the bottom of the model from sustaining damage from the build plate. It takes the hit from the scratches giving the 3D model a smooth surface to build on. If you do not know this and just hit "home" -the printer tries to approach the absolute zero point with its platform.

As a result, this may affect the print quality as it can distort the light image shining through the sheet. To avoid this, you need to remove the burrs from the build plate. To sand your build plate, you first want to clean the build plate with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth. Then you want to place the 120-grit sandpaper on the flat surface. Next, move the build plate over the sandpaper to remove the scratches and level out the low spots on the plate. Most of the time, you can either live with the scratches on your build plate or fix them. But sometimes, the damage might be too extensive, so you’re going to have to replace the build plate. Some people take the build plate and put it in the freezer for a few minutes. The cold shrinks the model on the build plate, making it easier to remove.

Customer Reviews

If you get that right and the print holds on the flex plate (more on that in a moment), it's a great thing. However, a small number of customers have experienced some quality control issues, like the build plate being slightly too big for the printer. As we’ve seen above, scratches don’t make a significant difference for your build plate and may actually help with adhesion. This is because the resin printer fills in the scratches on the build plate using the first layer. The first layer cures into the scratches on the build plate, giving the model additional grip on the build plate. After printing, you can easily remove this plate and flex it to get your print off it easily. It’s also made of stainless steel, making it harder to scratch or gouge its surface, giving it a higher lifespan. The logo on the surface is imprinted onto the bottom of the model, which can ruin its design. One user found the FUL logo on her print before she shipped it to a customer and as you can guess, that could’ve been very embarrassing.

The ELEGOO build plate is a full-sized replacement for the ELEGOO Mars 2 resin printer series. If your build plate has been damaged beyond repair, you might need this rather than a magnetic sheet. You can still create your usual supports between the raft and the model since it might be hard to separate the raft and model if created like the picture above. However, the user reported that the scratches didn’t affect the model’s quality or adhesion. In fact, they say the model was even harder to get off the build plate after the build plate was scratched. Continuous printing with a Double Wham, start another print before you start cleaning the first! The Double Wham contains:You can easily add rafts to the model in your favorite 3D modeling or slicing software. Here’s how you can add one in Lychee slicer: