Working without sufficient lighting, particularly in the small and tight locations on a 3D printer (for example, the extruder), can be a hassle. Adding an external lighting system to your printer will make working on it more straightforward and allow you to observe how your printer is printing from a distance. He believes that having 7 blades in the design made it capable to lower the RPM while generating more static pressure. Recommended reading: FreeCAD: Open-source 3D modeling software for everyone Fabulous Ender 3 S1 Upgrade On A Tight Budget OctoPrint

Lastly, we can go with the PSU or power supply unit fan upgrade. Again, Noctua is the favorite for this fan. I want to say Thank You to the Voron design team. I've really enjoyed learning from you. Thank you for sharing your files, criticism, advice, and support.

A reviewer of this fan said that he 3D prints with an enclosed chamber and it can get really hot while printing. He tried different brands of fans and even a smaller Noctua fan but always got clogs and heat creep. Once you have your shims in the right spots, remove the fan and install the printed leaf spring (AB-BN-28_spring) into fan front. The little circle tab should be cut off, it's an integral print support only. Squash ball feet are a common addition for Ender 3 printers since they can lower their noise output. Squash balls are rubber spheres with a hollow core that, when used as feet for a 3D printer, help reduce the machine’s vibrations. According to the designer, they printed the part with a 0.2-mm layer height and a 20% infill density. They also mentioned that they utilized PLA filament and activated supports for the print job. No additional screws are required to install the update beneath the X-axis stepper motor.

It does have open pins that could be broken, so one user designed and 3D printed a little case to protect them. He has been using it for more than 2 months now and never faced any issues to date. One user said that he bought two of these fans for his Ender 3 printer and now he doesn’t even realize whether the 3D printer is running because the noise is so low. This thing usually happens because of weak blades and it can lead to other safety issues. However, he gave an A++ rating to this fan as he is using it on an Ender 3 where he prints models that take 24+ hours but the power supply remains just cool.Disclaimer: It is your printer. If you do this and something breaks or if someone gets hurt, it is fully your responsibility. I take no responsibility. Special thanks The hotend fan is the most significant fan on a 3D printer because it contributes directly to your 3D prints and how well they come out. The model fits into the space reserved for the pre-installed drawer and divides the space into five distinct portions. As seen in the image above, the parts are ideal for storing some of the accompanying tools, such as pliers, wrenches, Allen keys, and spare nozzles, without causing the pieces to overlap. Creality’s latest iteration of the popular Ender 3 3D printer is the Ender 3 S1. The original Ender 3 was released in 2018 and was a massive hit in the consumer 3D printing sector thanks to its low cost and ease of upgradeability. He is happy as the fans fit perfectly and he cannot hear a sound even from a minor distance of 10 feet. He claims that noise reduction has made a big difference for him and he will buy more. Best PSU Fan Upgrade

In AB BN 28 and 29, we moved to a single piece front. This has a few advantages, but it appears there may be an issue causing hotend fan failures by stressing the 4010 fan at a weak point in its housing. The issue is fixed in AB-BN-30_fan_front.stl\ Test fit the fan in AB-BN-30_fan_front. Looking at it from the front, move the fan around to center the turbine blades. You may need to trim your fan housing a little more. Once the fan is centered, turn this over and note where you need to add shims between AB-BN-30_fan_front and the fan. To shim this I recommend vhb tape. These macros are automatically invoked when your target bed temp is changed (and ONLY then). Because of this, you do not need to add anything to your other macros.Are you a 3D printing enthusiast or professional in need of a reliable and efficient cooling solution for your printer's extruder? Look no further! The 5015 Extruder Blower Fan is here to enhance your 3D printing experience. This high-quality fan is specifically designed for popular 3D printers such as Kingroon KP3S and KP5L, Monoprice Maker Ultimate 2, Creality Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro, Prusa i3 MK3, and MK3S. With its exceptional performance and thoughtful design, this fan guarantees optimal cooling efficiency and improved print quality. Optimal Performance with 24V Input Power With AB-BN-30, the nozzle should protrude approx. 1.7 mm from the lowest part of the duct. When you look at the duct, people often think it looks like to air is pointed too high. The first option is to disconnect the old fan from the mainboard and connected the new one. This option will take more time, but you won’t have to cut into the existing wires. Upgrading the fan is a cheap and easy way to improve your prints by giving you better bridging and overhangs. In addition, it reduces the noise coming from the fans on the extruder. It’s really a win/win and an upgrade that I would highly recommend.

It means that if you have long duct from your blower to your nozzle (higher air resistance), you may want to prioritize fans with higher static pressure. This is especially important for Fang-type ducts with variable cross section. On other hand if your duct is short (low air resistance) go with the higher air flow. Now that the new fan is connected, we will need to mound the fan housing to the printer. It’s important that you do this before you connect the fans to the housing. Another user mentioned that he’s new to 3D printing and this was the hardest thing they have attempted. They managed to get there in the end after some failures, but it works great. They had to manually remove the spacers for the fan duct mounts due to the fan frame was too large.Next, we need to update the firmware to account for the BLTouch X & Y offsets. If you are not using a BLTouch, this step can be skipped. Another user said that he is extremely happy with this fan’s build because he used many fans for his 3D printer and some of them tend to break down.