The specific gravity is 0.89 which is decent. It is not that dry and it will not run off from the parts. It adheres to the metal surface quite well.

For this article, I will try to help you make better informed decisions when choosing assembly lubes and lubricants. First, do you need engine assembly lubes at all? As a physicist-motorhead who has built and destroyed his share of engines, I think so. No, you shouldn’t. Piston rings are hollow rings that only need oil for lubrication. As the rings shouldn’t be drenched or dipped in oil, assembly lubes shouldn’t be applied to them. How long does assembly lube last? Installing camshaft and lifters Lubricant must be extensively applied to the distributor gear, lifter bottoms, and each cam lobe during installation.

For the high-pressure usages, the manufacturers add some solid contents to their greases. Moly is the most popular ingredient for this purpose. The element Molybdenum is used for making different compounds. Every car owner wants their car to start off at once. They need assembly lubes that are often very costly without any extra accessibilities. So, this lube was worth the price. Although it is intended to use as the coating inside the cylinder surface. But you can use it in other parts. Most of the professional mechanics use this for installing a hydraulic camshaft.

The typical recommendation is to use the break-in oil for the first hour or so of run time and tuning, then drain it and change the filter. Some say their break-in oils can be left in the engine while doing dyno pulls or even for one night of racing. But there is a big negative side to the grease. You can not use in high-temperature exhaust bolts and other fasteners. It’s because that needs an anti-seize which is absent in this grease. But otherwise, it is great in preventing rust and corrosion. Pros Oil filters have a vital role in the engine. This filter removes the contaminants and keeps the engine lubricated with fresh oil. However, grease can clog the filters if it creates sludge. This lube prevents sludge formation and does not accumulate dirt in the oil filters. As a result, the lube does not clog the filters. Anti-Corrosive: Once the initial fuel, ignition and valvetrain adjustments have been made and initial dyno pulls completed, shut the engine off, drain the break-in oil, and remove and inspect the oil filter for any signs of trouble (such as metallic debris that indicates unusual wear is occurring).

Packaging

The manufacturer used all the high-quality ingredients. I didn’t find any ingredient in the spec sheet that does not comply with the engine OEMs. The compatibility is great with any type of engine. If you don’t follow the method of the engine manufacturer then you might not get the expected results. I heard some people complaining about this lubricant. But honestly speaking, this is not that bad. Therefore, how does one intelligently decide which assembly products to use? I’m going to ignore roller cams here, because rollers don’t have the EP requirements that flat tappet cams do. Rollers just need adequate, clean oil to allow their components to survive. Never use grease on rollers. If that roller skids across the cam lobe a few times without turning, it can flat spot and fail. Does not clog filters and mixes easily with synthetic and petroleum-based lubricants. Completely engineered with high amounts of anti-wear, high-pressure, and friction-reducing surface active chemistry. It didn’t use Molybdenum Disulfide in the chemical formula. But it provides more stability than the moly greases. On top of that, the absence of moly provides you better protection against corrosion.