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Ilford HP5+ 400asa 35mm - 36 exp

£9.9£99Clearance
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Ilford HP5 is a film that is simple to use overall. Load it into your camera and what you’re going to get are fairly low contrast images when you rate the film at ISO 400 and use vintage glass. If you’re more inclined to use newer glass with the more advanced coatings, you’re going to get more contrasty images of course because the lenses were designed to do this. Underexpose the film and it’s also going to be contrasty. Overexpose it and you’ll get lower contrast. Of course, all of this is relative to your development of Ilford HP5 at ISO 400. In my usage, I’ve found that I probably wouldn’t want to use it for everyday things. I appreciate it’s look and many other photographers may swear by it, but I think Ilford Delta 400, Kodak Tri-X 400, Lomography Earl Grey 100 pushed to ISO 400, and Japan Camera Hunter Street Pan 400 are better suited to street photography. ILFORD PHOTO also produce specialist films outside of the PLUS and DELTA PROFESSIONAL ranges. These have unique characteristics that differentiate them from the others.

Ilford HP5+ Film Review Ilford HP5+ Film Review

HP5 Plus did live up to its billing as far as contrast goes too. I definitely got more dramatic results out of the JCH Street Pan 400 and the Rollei Retro 400 too. Not that this is categorically a bad thing or a good thing. Some people might not want too much contrast. If you want some details in shadows though, I believe that EI 800 is optimal for push processing. The “true speed” of HP5+ is usually tested around 250 I think (in my case 320) but as I’ve mentioned, when it’s pushed, the film will try to maintain shadow details as much as possible – depending of course on lighting and other factors. I can’t speak from experience when it comes to developing HP5 Plus, but I can point you in the right direction for the information needed to do so yourself. The processing chart is right here, the massive dev chart entry is right here, and the general data sheet is right here. See part one of my High EI Shootout for examples and thoughts on HP5 PLUS shot at and developed for EI 12800. If you would like to see examples shot and developed for EI 25600, please visit part two of my High EI Shootout. A part three at EI 51200 is coming. Contrast characteristics This is a really cool process that works to reduce the negative contrast and increase sharpness by allowing the developer to exhaust itself on the highlights while having more time to interact with and develop the shadows.Of course, there are plenty of other solid options for pushing HP5+. The developers above are both fine-grain developers, which means they have a solvent in them that reduces the size of the grain, and potentially some of the sharpness of the film. If you’re personally a big fan of grains, then you’ll want a High-Acutance developer like Rodinal or diluted HC-110. It would be very easy to lift a sentence straight from the horse’s mouth, reword as if we were an e-commerce retailer, and use that to answer that subheading. Something like the following: We should start by pointing out that there is no ‘wrong’ choice when it comes to ILFORD films. They are all fantastic, and your choice will boil down to a combination of personal preference (for example grain structure) and how/what you plan to shoot (speed and exposure latitude). DELTA PROFESSIONAL vs PLUS range comparison PAST BYLINES: Gear Patrol, PC Mag, Geek.com, Digital Photo Pro, Resource Magazine, Yahoo! News, Yahoo! Finance, IGN, PDN, and others.

HP5 PLUS 35mm 50 pack - Ilford Photo HP5 PLUS 35mm 50 pack - Ilford Photo

If you just want to think about what you want to tell with a photo, it’s best to expose correctly for what you want to show, on 400 ASA and to develop with the times as shown on the box. High-acutance developers do not have any solvent in them, so they render solid, sharp grains on your film. Rodinal is a classic developer. It’s the oldest film developer that’s still in production. And it has generations of users who sing its praises. If you’re shooting film, you probably want to see some of those grains, anyway. So why not use a developer that can get the most out of your image. However, while I can’t think of any reason to recommend you don’t use this film for street photography, there is still that one aspect that means you might not want to anyway. And that is that contrast again. For me it does not make sense: if you want little (very fine) grain, you should shoot with FP4+, or even better, with PAN F. Of all the problems I had with digital photography there was one that always got me; photograph in the dark looked like crap. Even with good full frame bodies, they still looked awful to me.It’s wide exposure latitude makes it a great choice for beginners, those returning to film as well as the more experienced professional users.

HP5 PLUS 120 - Ilford Photo HP5 PLUS 120 - Ilford Photo

Ilford HP5 is a film that, if you are shooting in a low contrast situation, it’s simply just going to become washed out unless you underexpose it a bit. If you’re shooting in contrasty light, then it’s going to neutralize the situation when shooting outdoors in the real world. In the studio, where you’ve got the most control of lighting, is where I recommend that Ilford HP5 will really be used to its highest proficiency. Voigtlander Bessa R I’ve been shooting HP5+ for a while and found that I prefer it to TriX a lot due to its more muted contrast at box speed. Only shot the kodak one at box speed but I was getting too much of that ‘crazy contrast’, I don’t think hp5 gets there even at 1600 with somewhat aggressive agitation. My favourite combinations/pushes are in the table below. N denotes normal processing, with the numbers that follow denoting the number of stops to push in development. Reversal developmentIf you want to get more hands-on, you can also buy it in 100′ bulk rolls. And of course it’s available in 120 format too, although we’re really just talking about the 35mm here. For me, that’s missing the point. I’m not saying it isn’t average. It is, but in a good way rather than bad. Nothing is outstandingly wrong and the attributes just seem to add up to more than the sum of their parts to give clean, sharp, and just really nice to look at results. Both developers, especially the Rodinal in a semi-stand will increase edge sharpness, giving the feeling of greater contrast without necessarily building up too much contrast across the entire frame. DD-X is fantastic for push processing and provides what I’d describe as a wonderful “tonally smooth” result.

HP5 PLUS HARMAN technology Limited TECHNICAL INFORMATION HP5 PLUS

I shot my first roll of HP5 PLUS with a Mamiya 645 and I was a bit worried. First of all I was shooting on film for the first time after many years away (I was 18 at the time). I was also shooting on a medium format camera and had decided (for good or bad!) to follow through the entire process from capture to the development and – and after trail and error – to the final printing of the film.It’s worth noting that Tri-X is a tolerable film. The emulsion can handle pushing the film to higher ISO’s, such as 800, 3200, or an extreme 6400. You’ll have to adjust your camera manually and let us know what ISO you shot it at before we process the roll. There are few things to consider while pushing. Contrast increases due to lost detail in shadows, so it’s better to agitate very slowly and carefully. I typically do inversions/rotations initially for 30 seconds and then 1 every half a minute.

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