ProGold Xtreme Chain Lubricant 4oz, Yellow, One Size

Product Information

Tester George writes: “Muc-Off claim that the lube performs to the highest standards in a variety of conditions, from hot and dusty to cold and wet. I managed to test in some fairly diverse conditions that included each of these and I would agree that it performs well. With terrible weather at the start of an 80km followed by heat, there was no clunking or shifting lag, even under load at the end. Trust our 14 years of experience in the bicycle insurance industry. Our comprehensive, customisable, and competitively priced coverage includes easy online quotes, fast claims handling, and expert customer service. Xtreme is more waterproof than ProLink and ideal for winter racing/training – road, cyclocross, MTB. Xtreme can also be used in dry road racing conditions as well, but since it is more expensive than ProLink, and offering nominal advantage in dry conditions, I recommend ProLink for all dry conditions and Xtreme in hard-use/wet environments. In general you should always clean your chain thoroughly before lubricating it if you're using conventional lube; lubing a dirty chain will just wash grit into the links where it causes wear. PRSboy: Squirt seems to be the holy grail of lubes, as long as you don't mind reapplying after a wet ride. I've been most impressed.

ProGold Prolink Chain Lube - The Bicycle Chain

fukawitribe replied to r.glancy: I've found Squirt stays on pretty well (for me anyway) even in the wet - very clean, very easy to apply, not so cheap. I've not tried Smoove yet but heard good things about running it, not so much the actual prep and application, probably give it a whirl at some point though. If you prefer to keep your bike in pristine condition and are happy regularly cleaning and servicing your bike, a dry lube might be the right choice. Because it doesn’t attract grit and dirt like a wet lube, you can simply add a new application of dry lube to keep the drivetrain running sweetly. Argus Tuft replied to hawkinspeter: Ta HP - I found it worked as well as the bought stuff.I've moved on to using a home made "candle" of wax with a dash of grease applied to a chain freshly warmed with a heat gun. Any dirt seems to fall away. No cleaning required. Use a suitable heat shield between chain and wheel.

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Previous to MB I used the molten wax routine which was great but a lot of work, not worth the hassle. I want to spend time riding my bike, not tinkering with it. With the changeable summer weather we had during testing a once a month clean of the chain and re-lube with the Pedro's kept everything running smoothly. You'll need to re-apply more often in winter.” While we didn’t specifically ask for readers’ grease and bike wash preferences, dozens of readers chimed in with recommendations for these products. So, if you’re looking for a good grease to use on your bike (please, not the chain!), it seems you can’t go wrong with Phil Wood Waterproof Grease or Park Polylube 1000.

Safety Data Sheet - ProGold

With a name like Boeshield T-9, it has to be good, right? This hybrid lube is designed for both wet and dry conditions. When you buy a bike from us you will get a free service at your nearest Bicycle Chain store within 6 weeks of taking delivery of your bike. It doesn’t last long on properly gritty, wet rides – which is fair enough – but it’s definitely more tenacious than others I’ve used of late. Its also proved just as effective on long, gravelly rides where conditions are less extreme, but the chain is spun more. Preparing my daughters bike for her next Criterium, I used Blast Off degreaser to clean the cassette, PRO Towels to make sure the chain is spotless and now my daughter is finishing by cleaning up the bike with Bike Shine. After using Blast Off, quite a bit of the dirt and grime went onto the frame. We took a clean rag and hit it with about 3 squirts of Bike Shine. One light swipe and the grime is gone! I was really impressed how easy it was. No rubbing or scrubbing, just a lite wipe and the frame is spotless.I use RnR gold, RnR red, Muc Off wet, Muc Off dry. Pretty lazy cleaning and applying but when used even the filthiest chain sets smooth out. If you’re a regular commuter or a year-round long distance cyclist, then a wet lube is going to be our tip for you. It will not only last longer but also handle any weather conditions. To summarize my test results at the time I wrote this review, I have 3,200 miles on my chain and it was at 70% wear. I am convinced that ProLink Chain Lube contributed to this chain’s long life. The chain still shifts great and there is little wear on I really wish we had asked folks where they live to see if there is a correlation with trail conditions and their choice of lube type, because there should be a close relationship if people are choosing lube correctly. Still, it’s interesting to note that mountain bikers are pretty evenly split between wet lubes and dry lubes. (If you’re not sure what a hybrid lube is, you didn’t read Chris’s article yet. Do it.) Popular Greases and Bike Wash Products Tester Mike writes: "The compelling argument for Silca Synergetic is long term. It's easy to apply, lasts ages and keeps things clean, but the real benefit is the protection it gives your components. Even if those components, like mine, live in Scotland. The longer you use it, the more you offset the price, and happily it lasts really well.

ProLink Chain Lube – ProGold

you should be riding again on sunday not cleaning your chain for six hours...I have ridden 100 km a day here in Ontario since march (now oct) only missing about 7 days due to all day rain (retired) on my 70-80s colnagos, pinarello,, frejus, guerciotti, superleggera bianchi etc. Caught out in fog and the wd40 spray teflon bike lube (not regular wd 40) ended up all over a Colnago so was researching wet lubes. One guy liked the old 3in1 oil I used to use...old school! When I get home from a ride I wipe the chain off again to remove the lube that has come out of the links and collected dust. Prior to a training ride, I scrubbed the chain completely clean, then oiled with ProLink. 40 miles later, I put Results from wiping a clean chain with 40 miles on it.ProLink Chain Lube utilizes metal friction reducers in a formula that won’t gunk up over time. This makes it ideal for chains, as well as other metal-to-metal interfaces such as pivot pins on front and rear derailleurs and brake calipers. Testing ProLink This really is one thing where dirt cheap is actually technically superior to all the potions, lotions and sauces they sell by the ounce. The only genuine hassle is the first degrease and clean - but you were doing that between regular lubes already, no? Thereafter I just pre-rinse the chain in boiling water, then rewax. I do this weekly. If you have time for a four hour bike ride on Saturday, you have time to spend six hours on your chain on Sunday (you can get it down to six hours once you've done it a few times.) I have been using Xtreme as well during my chain test and chain wear with Xtreme is identical to ProLink (in our dry SoCal environment).

Prolink Chain Lube 4oz - Analog Cycles Prolink Chain Lube 4oz - Analog Cycles

From a cost/benefit viewpoint, there's no point spending more on hi-tec unguents than you're saving on drivetrain wear. Argus Tuft: Dissolve a rounded teaspoon of grated paraffin wax in 100ml of shellite (I don't know what it's called over there – Stoddard's Solvent?). Using pliers, carefully pull the nozzle out of a R&R lube bottle and refill using a small funnel. Close enough to free. A small amount of moly or bearing grease – less is more – makes it even better. I am far happier with Pedro’s Ice Wax and Boeshield T9 than with White Lightning, WL Race Day (junk — it precipitates and becomes unusable), or ProLink. — Richard M.I had been using White Lightning. Perhaps putting ProLink over that was a mistake. Whatever, drivetrain noise increased and shifting deteriorated. I seemed to need to reapply after 100 miles or less, contrasted with 200 miles or so for WL. The second application survived some pretty foul weather, the Dartmoor Devil audax (muddy, grim) and is just running dry after over 300 miles. That's really quite remarkable.” Aerodynamic, or wind drag, is the biggest obstacle to going fast. Friction in the drivetrain also contributes to overall drag but a modern drivetrain is in the region of 90-98% efficient, depending on the condition of the chain and several other factors.