Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Wild Rider Red

Product Information

These Citadel Layer paints from Games Workshop are designed to be used straight over Citadel Base paints and itself, without any mixing. If you use several layers of this high-quality water based acrylic paint on your models it will create a rich and natural finish that will look as amazing on display as it would 3 hours into a gruelling battle. The paints are supplied in 12ml pots and can be used on any plastic, metal or resin models.

Mini, my actual pet cat by Dan “The Sex Cannon” Boyd Mini, acrylic on canvas. Dan Boyd circa 2012 The reference photo of Mini in her natural habitat: getting caught in something and screaming at me until I let her out. I’m not going to write how I do my lenses as I’m using a method from Mighty Brush’s how to paint Blood Angels guide. These are wonderfully laid out tomes that go into detail on many of the techniques I’ve used here and I can’t recommend them strongly enough. You can also use Goonhammer’s tutorials from How to Paint Space Marines, or How to Paint Lenses, gemstones, and vials. Blood spatter I painted the off-yellow skin in slightly different ways on my Barbgaunts, Psychophage, and Von Ryan’s Leapers – employing various combos of Plaguebearer Flesh and thinned-down Nazdreg Yellow over a Wraithbone base, with highlights ranging from Dorn Yellow to Flayed One Flesh – but they all still look like closely-related beasties. I’ve got yet another approach in mind for my Termagants… This bonded pair of Squigs found their way into my home when I got a box of Zarbaj’s Jitz with my Adepticon swag bag last year. The two have been inseparable since I adopted them, only leaving each other’s side to maul whatever poor fool decided to get too close to their territory. My paintscheme for Zarbaj and his Jitz involves a lot of purple and yellow, so I forewent the typical reds and oranges you see Squigs come in, and went instead for a pinkish purple. I think it’s pretty fashionable. With some kitchen towel laid out, give your brush some test blasts with your airbrush. Vary the distance between the brush and the towel and your airbrush and the brush until you find a level of spatter that works for you. You don’t want to head straight into doing this on your model or you risk wiping out a lot of your work.

Step 5. Heraldry

Cadian Fleshtone: Cadian Fleshtone is a pale, neutral flesh color that can be used to create highlights and shadows on the red armor of Wild Rider Red miniatures. As a flesh-coloured paint, it can be used to create a sense of depth and balance on the miniature, making the red appear more dynamic. You can use this technique on owls from Games Workshop too. I switched the basecoats out for Zandri Dust but otherwise it’s the same process. Owl. Credit: Lupe The metallic highlights used were Pro Acryl Copper and Vallejo Game Color Chainmail. For these I wipe a bit of the paint off on a paper towel before running the brush against the upper surfaces of the metals areas. It’s similar to a drybrush technique. The leather bits were highlighted with Vallejo Flat Earth. When I first met Porter, he was carrying powder for a regiment of Empire Handgunners. Knowing that gunpowder and monkeys are a disaster waiting to happen, I sent him off to the Talabheim Tappers, a local Free Company Militia regiment where he could be safe and oh god he’s GOT A KNIFE

Guilliman Blue in the runic design (as this color is no longer available, you could make a custom glaze using a 2:1 mix of Lahmian Medium and any blue) I don't actually think the exact paints/washes you use matter as much as simply attending to those issues. I've used Coelia Greenshade in the crevices and that works pretty well, but lately I've been just using carrowburg crimson because it's easier, although it doesn't get the same dark shade in the grooves.

Now for the finishing touches. A Flesh Tearer should be blood-stained so I drop some Blood for the Blood God on his chainsword and some drops on the base to make him suitably stained. The base is Astrogranite drybrushed with Celestra Grey and then some Valhallan Blizzard and tufts of Army Painter static grass on top of that. I’m very happy with how this guy turned out and may paint more of these in the future if I can settle on a faster way to do the shoulder pad icons. Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones Credit: Robert “TheChirurgeon” Jones I do not remember the exact colors or ratios I used to render my sweet daughter on canvas. Looks like there was some grey, purple, yellow, red, and white. Feel free to attempt to paint my lovely companion animal yourself, and share with us the result. At this stage I’m doing more red highlight as well, doing edge highlights on the red with Wazdakka Red. I also cover the eyes, doing them in a gemstone style using Warpstone Glow shaded with Coelia Greenshade and Nuln Oil and highlight with a spot of Moot Green. Shade red armour Flesh Tearer Contrast thinned 3:1. Here we want to shade from the recesses towards the brightest spots so we keep the saturation at its highest where light hits the model. You’ll need to give it 3 or so passes, just keep going if it looks pink and remember to pause to let the model dry if you’re unsure if it needs another layer.

The hexadecimal color code #ea2f28 is a shade of red. In the RGB color model #ea2f28 is comprised of 91.76% red, 18.43% green and 15.69% blue. In the HSL color space #ea2f28 has a hue of 2° (degrees), 82% saturation and 54% lightness. This color has an approximate wavelength of 609.74 nm. The model receives a wash of Army Painter Soft Tone followed by a drybrush of Vallejo Game Air Bonewhite and a second drybrush of Vallejo Model Color Gloss White. This is the same method I use for the bone color in my Primaris Marines and will serve as the foundation for the colors on top. Using the thinned air paint creates an interesting glaze effect which both highlights the edges and tints the entire model. I’m also highlighting the reds at this stage, doing blends of Khorne Red with Mephiston Red. The White parts get washed with Apothecary White, which we’ll then revisit, shading in the spots in-between feathers with Nuln Oil and doing some extra highlights with Reaper Pure White. Do two steps of edge highlighting – first with Vallejo Model Color Dark Grey, then with Dark Blue Grey.Troll Slayer Orange: Troll Slayer Orange is a bright orange color that can be used to create a split-complementary color scheme with Wild Rider Red. This color can be used to create a sense of movement and energy on the miniature, as well as to break the monotony of the red. For the basecoats of the metallics I use Pro Acryl Bronze and Pro Acryl Dark Silver. These have amazing coverage and go down in one coat over white with no issues. Lastly is the leather details which I paint with Wyldwood contrast paint for a nice dark brown. The remaining miniatures from the box were painted up to match my existing Tyranid force. I have quite a large army of these guys already, as well as a subservient Genestealer Cult, so I’ll be dropping these straight into that collection – which actually featured in the Crusade section of the previous Tyranids codex. Khorne red has a lot more blue in it than Mephiston, so it is a pretty good base color for red armor because it makes getting the dark contrasting areas less work. Carefully edge highlight the red with Scalecolor SC-37 Antares Red. I even highlight into some of the shaded areas to add a bit of definition.