Games Workshop Citadel Pot de Peinture - Layer Liberator Gold

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Thanks for reading, and keep your eyes peeled for part 2 in the next couple of weeks. In the mean time there’s the full Ballista crew video linked at the top of this post to keep you going. In our How to Paint Everything series, we take a look at different armies of the Warhammer universe, examine their history and heraldry, and look at several different methods for painting them. By popular demand, this week we’re looking at how to paint the terrifying VIII legion, the Night Lords. The Night Lords I decided to create my interpretation of Aethon Shaan’s 1st Company Raven Guard. I started with the Captain himself, using a head swap from the Forge World upgrade set , which significantly changes the dynamic of the miniature.

The Terminators are wonderful to paint – big, chunky and really solid in hand. They also took Contrast paints really well as I went with my tried and tested – and relatively easy – method of painting yellow.The armour is my standard and much loved (possibly by me alone) gold method, it’s simple and effective. Initially the miniature was sprayed with Citadel Retributor Armour, but the pot of Retributor Armour gives a nice smooth layer too, so either works. It’s then been washed with Citadel Agrax Earthshade before having Retrbutor Armour reapplied, leaving the Agrax Earthshade in the recesses. To highlight I used Citadel Liberator Gold on all the areas I think would be catching the light the most, then I did one more extreme highlight of Liberator Gold mixed with Vallejo Model Air Chrome. Night Lords. Aka the marines that should probably have a rule called “Actually, they know quite a bit of fear”.

It all starts with a base coat of Zandri Dust Spray and a heavy drybrush of Morghast Bone . Following that I use Agrax Earthshade to do a recess shade before highlighting every edge I can reach with White Scar . The model is then covered with a heavily thinned layer of Iyanden Yellow Contrast applied using the biggest brush I can fit in the pot. Once dry, I apply another White Scar highlight, only hitting the forward facing edges this time, before again drenching the model in thinned Iyanden Yellow. A last highlight of White Scar, focused on the most prominent points of the armour and a third and final layer of Iyanden Yellow finishes the job, and gives a wonderfully smooth yellow. Gadge: Mantis Warriors Finish the model off with some basing. I do all of my Night Lords with snow/winter bases. So for most of them, I paint the base with Reaper Ghost White, then I cover the base with Valhallan Blizzard texture paint. I used to use Mourn Mountain Snow for this but that stuff looked like white dirt, and the new texture paint looks much more like actual snow. The 8 paint metal n alchemy sets have 4 metallics each, and 4 'alchemy' paints, which are coloured metallics for adjusting the hue for different effects. e.g. the steel set has an additional white, and pale blue, green and purple that you can mix into the other metallics or highlight with. Blue (cobalt alchemy) is great for tinting dwarf armour for example as an alternative to doing it via a end stage blue glaze. They're less shiny than the pure metallics. When the battle lines form and the rows of Stormcast Eternals charge, the Celestar Ballista adds a dose of firepower to cut down the enemies of Sigmar. With the size of the barrels you could easily mistake it for a quad-barrelled heavy bolter with some fancy mounting, but the ballista is worth it’s weight in plastic. A start to finish tutorial for the ballista can be found on our Youtube Channel, while the other crewman will be up as a video tutorial on 2nd March 2020. Adding more layers – I highlight the cabling with Moot Green to give it a brighter look that pops against the dark armor. I edge highlight the Bolter with Evil Sunz Scarlet and use Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet to build up the cloth tabard. The eye lenses are Mephiston Red with a spot of Evil Sunz Scarlet. I also wash the leather parts with Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil.

I'm currently using GW Citadel metallic paints but they're running low and I need to re-up. I'm thinking of switching to the newer metallic paints. Prince of Crows by Aaron Dembski Bowden. Set in the Horus Heresy, fan fave Night Lord Sevatar chews the scenery and generally shows the Night Lords at their worst (i.e their best). In addition, most advertising networks offer you a way to opt out of targeted advertising. If you would like to find out more information, please visit http://www.aboutads.info/choices/or http://www.youronlinechoices.com.

The Liberator Gold paint from Citadel is a high-quality acrylic paint specifically formulated for miniature painting. It boasts a rich, metallic pigmentation that provides excellent coverage and a lustrous, matt finish. This paint is considered a “must-have” in a beginner’s palette, as its versatility and foundation-like quality make it an ideal base coat for layering and highlighting other colors. The pigments in this paint are carefully selected and blended to create a color that will truly make your miniatures shine, and can be seen as a cornerstone of any miniature painter’s collection. What armies to paint with Liberator GoldThe golds are also good, and the quad there is "negro gold", "viking gold", "dwarven gold" and "elven gold". I'm afraid I don't have the equivalent GW paints to compare, but they're sort of dark gold, old gold, red gold and pale gold respectively.

Mix a ton of Lahmian Medium into Kabalite green. Do a few layers of this Starting at the mid point of one half of the sword. The at the same point, hit the otherside of the sword blade and go towards the tip. Continue to do layers of this, progressively moving away from the center of the sword. Brother Mortis is armed and ready for war! This mighty Ballistus Dreadnought joins the ranks of my Ultramarines 2nd Company to purge the enemies of mankind from afar.The VMA range also have metallic colours - blue, red, etc. The blue is fantastic, but the red isn't as metallic as I'd hoped. You can mix in some silver paint to make them more metallic, and then use some inks or Tamiya clear to deepen the colour intensity, so it's still worth trying them out and seeing how they work for you. Highlight the blade edges with Ulthuan Grey, the more grey bits of the blade get a white scar air highlight, then add in LIGHTNING with white scar air. Anyway, here’s how I paint them with the award winning (awards pending) Completely Ok Dark blue Armour method.: