Slimline 10000 BTU Portable Air Conditioner for medium rooms up to 28 sqm

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You’d be hard-pressed to market most air conditioners as a hipster lifestyle accessory, but that’s how America’s EcoFlow pitch the Wave 2. Boasting Lamborghini-style spoilers and slats, it’s a handsome and genuinely portable model that weighs about the same as a piece of carry-on luggage. This reduces noise by running the compressor and fan more slowly. Often, the target temperature will increase automatically across the night so you don't wake up freezing cold.

As for running costs, a higher BTU rating generally means the PAC will be doing more work and consuming more energy, but not all units are created equal. Your air conditioner should have an energy efficiency class, from A++ down to G, just like your fridge or cooker. The higher the class, the more efficient the unit will be. Are there any other features I should look out for? Now, you do have a bit over-average sun exposure. The 14,000 BTU not adequately cooling your room does make a bit of sense. You would require at least 15,000 BTU, up to about 20,000 BTU of cooling output. How much exactly it’s really difficult to pinpoint. 18,000 BTU would be a safe choice but the biggest portable AC units go only up to 14,000-15,000 BTU. Options for 18,000 BTU are a mini-split or a bigger window AC unit. You do find yourself is a bit of a struggle here but hopefully, you can resolve it. The 14,000 BTU unit is undersized by a few 1,000 BTUs. Hope this helps. Reply Here is an example of how you can calculate how many BTUs you need to cool down a 500 sq. ft. area with 8 feet ceilings, average sun exposure, average climate, and not including kitchen (you can find this BTU calculator below and use it for your situation; with 4,000-24,000 BTU room size table):

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What size air conditioner you opt for depends on a variety of factors, one of them being the price you're willing to pay. As far as I can tell, based on square footage alone I would be looking for a 5000 btu unit, but I am wondering if 6000 might be better given the location of the room and those additional factors. I definitely do not want to cause moisture issues by getting too big a unit, but do not want to undersize and have a unit not work either. I need to keep an eye on the finances, but this is an infrastructure upgrade. 🙂 I’d like to get it right the first time and not have to think about the AC for another ten years!

Remember that opening the windows on either side of your home will allow air to flow through. If you have a conservatory, keep the door between it and your home closed, as a lot of heat might leak from the conservatory into other rooms. How we test air conditioners It's got a few other features too, including a powerful fan and a dehumidifier mode (which requires the attachment of an included hose to collect the moisture) which makes the AEG a do-it-all appliance.The simplest way to try to fix this without upgrading the AC/furnace dual system or adding room AC units and space heaters is to lower humidity levels. As you might imagine, the AC will struggle at 60%+ relative humidity. It will produce less airflow because it can more readily condensate air moisture from slower moving air. Hope this makes sense. The way you lower the humidity is by getting a dehumidifier. You have your small and cheap stand-alone dehumidifiers and bigger and costlier ducted dehumidifiers for the whole house. You can read more about these whole-house dehumidifiers here, with some specific suggestions. Despite being small in size, it’s fairly powerful and instantaneously spread air across the living room. Although the exhaust hose isn’t aesthetically pleasing, it does make for a powerful air conditioner and its energy efficiency makes it a great choice for continual use during summer. Thanks to its Wi-Fi capabilities, you can also control the air conditioner with your smartphone. It also supports voice controls through Alexa or Google Assistant. All costs includes parts, labour, call out and delivery charges are covered, so you can rest assured there are no hidden costs. For smaller untis we may ask you to return it to our UK repair centre.

I have an open plan living room to an occasionally used kitchen, it’s a longer shape with a square footage a little under 300 sqft. There’s a door usually left open to a bedroom (about 110 sq ft and with its own A/C), and another to a <100 sq ft bathroom which can’t really be cooled except for whatever flows in from the living area. Ceilings are about 10’, and one wall is almost all windows – about 75sq ft of glass. It gets incredibly humid in the summer (90%+) but the windows are north facing and direct sun exposure is not excessive. These machines are quieter and more efficient than portable models, but need to be permanently positioned in just one room. If you've settled on a split-unit air conditioner, you'll need to get it set up by a professional – note that installers tend to be at their busiest during the summer. When it comes to cooling your home, the air conditioner you choose will come down to the size of the room needing to be cooled and how hot the space you're planning on cooling is (from factors such as computers and people). Hello Kenneth, this is how you should think about this: 1) How many BTUs do I need overall? 2) How will the airflow reach all the rooms. Given that you have 8 ft ceiling height in almost all rooms, and average insulation, you can use the 20 BTU or 25 BTU per sq ft formula to calculate the BTUs you need. For a 2,800 sq ft house that would be from 56,000 BTU to 70,000 BTU. So, you are looking at about 5-6 tons of refrigeration.

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Portable air conditioning units are far cheaper than investing in getting central air conditioning installed, and far easier to get up and running. If you want to properly cool down a 300 square foot area (or room), you need a 6,000 BTU air conditioner. Obviously, the problem arises when you have a tiny 12×12 room, for example. According to the US Department of Energy directive, an air conditioner’s most appropriate size would be 2,880 BTU unit. The best you can do here is to buy a small 5,000 BTU window or a small 8,000 BTU portable AC unit (more about the smallest AC units here).

The 3 bedrooms, bathrooms and hall can be closed off by a door. The 23×12 master is at the end of an approx 75sq ft hall, I definitely want a unit in this room. Each bedroom to either side of the hall measures 13×13. Will a solo mini split unit in the center master cool the 2 side bedrooms at all? A 12k 22 SEER or a 18k 20 SEER is too big for that room alone unless the unit will actually reach to include cooling the 2 side bedrooms. An alternative option is the 27k 22 SEER 3 zone unit, with a 9k handler for each bedroom, likewise seems more than suggested for the per room sizes but is the lowest btu multi 3 zone unit. But it is true the home has no insulation and long thin glassed windows, perhaps higher btu are needed. What would you suggest?Not too small. You don’t want to get hot in the summer because you bought a 6,000 BTU portable air conditioner for a 1,000 sq ft apartment. This B+D unit really deserves to be called portable. Its compact design and low weight (lightest on my list) make it very easy to move around. Multiply the dimensions (in feet) of the room by five. So for a room measuring 15ft x 10ft x 8ft, you would calculate 15 x 10 x 8 x 5 = an air conditioner of 6,000 BTUs.