Fine Surface Primer L - Light Gray 180ml Spray Can

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While they are not acrylic-based, Tamiya primers are easy to use. In two to three coats, it provides excellent coverage without much hassle.

Then, I filled some of the liquid into a small jar. I use those 23ml Tamiya mixing jars, they are essentially empty X/XF paint jars. This way, I don't have to leave the large bottle open all the time. I used a brush to apply the Methoxypropanol to primed and halfway painted parts. Then I left them in a closed tupper box for 15 minutes, and did the same procedure again. I can already see the primer and paint going thinner and even breaking down in some places on the large parts, mainly where the oven cleaner prep did it's job. Looks like this will work good, but needs some experimenting in applying to see how to get the best results on large parts. I build tons of static models and used quite a few cans of TS (and AS) and also live in the UK and had sprayed in the shed right through winter, even when it snows. There is a slight texture to the paint, you can see it where the light is hitting the shell in the pic below. I wouldn't exactly say it was orange peel, but it seems like a very fine version of that. This is down to technique I assume? Any tips on how to avoid in future?Definitely use a primer. I don't think I've ever painted a TS paint without a primer, but I doubt the results would be very good. The only way to use Tamiya primers with other paint brands is to ensure that the primer cures fully. Tamiya surface primer is one of the best in the industry, for a reason How to remove Tamiya paint / How to clean brushes: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=75942&p=582620

Cure time is about 2 hours for flat paint, gloss I usually let it sit 5-6 hours as I use a wet coat at the end. I tend to push the dry times to the limits so take your time. About Methoxypropanol PM / Safety precautions: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=75942&p=581714 The fact that it is a lacquer base gives Tamiya primers a solid base when it comes to adherence. It adheres well to the plastic, giving you a better base on which to lay down your lacquer-based acrylics on. Tamiya surface primer has 8 colors to choose from Humidity is (for me) not a huge issue as I keep the model indoors until spraying and take it in straight away. It is a huge issue for pure waterbased paint, which TS are not. Try to get at least 20 degrees in the paint area before you paint. As well as helping paint adhesion, this will drive away any moisture in the air. Paint cools as it expands and this encourages moisture to condense on the freshly-painted surface. TS paints are more affected by moisture in the atmosphere, which manifests as a fogging in the colour and there's not much you can do to get rid of it. If you can get the heat directly in the paint box, great. I use a pair of 500W halogen worklamps as they really blast heat into the area, despite being terribly inefficient as a light source they are fantastically efficient at getting heat into the paint area. Even in midwinter, the temp gauge in the spray bench will get above 20 degrees after 10 minutes or so. It would take all day to reach that temp on the bench with a 2000W oil-filled radiator positioned nearby. Pretty sure halogens have been banned in the UK because people insist on bolting them to their garden walls and letting all that heat escape into the atmosphere while floodlighting their midnight barbecue at 3 polar bears per minute. Be warned that a gas heater will emit moisture into the air.If you are painting a runner body, you will probably discover it is not worth the time as it will get chipped, scratched, etc... Best to get a spare body for display and one for running. (note, this is my personal opinion after seeing how a painted Lunchbox turned out) Far as I had experienced, there is not a great due of difference between surface primer and fine surface primer, just color, IIRC. Wash your model, use your bath with Poundland dishwashing liquid and hot water from your tap (not boiling!).

One of the many reasons hobby painters use Tamiya primers over other brand models is the final finish the primer yields.

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CC for CC, Halfords paint is cheaper than Tamiya, and work just as well. I will still use their spray if not for the fact that the nearest Halfords is 200+ miles away from me and I airbrush now. When you are finished with one layer, you can clear the nozzle. Flip the can upside down and spray in the air for half a second. (Once you clear the nozzle, you can spray a half-spent can a year later, if you want to.) Between layers, I give half an hour. On a hot and dry days, as little as 10 minutes. If I paint after sundown and the humidity is up, 45 minutes to an hour. before you worry about paint, make sure you key the body, then wash it with fairy up liquid and thoroughly dry it with a clean, non-floof-dropping towel (I find teatowels or microfibre cloths best). Not sure what your water is like in Farnbro but over here in West Wilts it's so hard you could hit someone over the head with it, if you leave a water blob on the surface it'll dry into a ring of healthy minerals and be visible all the way to the topcoat. Firstly--I want to thank every one of you that responded! I really appreciate that you took the time and that you are sharing your knowledge! All of you have me reconsidering how I approach priming. I am leaning towards my on the go decanting as the problem. I may be gassing out certain things that in the end affects the remaining paint within the can.

Primered x4 coats, although one of those was really only to recoat the areas where the sand paper had removed the primerIf you’re considering using Tamiya Surface Primer for your models, you’ll find them in varying colors like: When I use a spray primer (I don't live in a great climate for sprays, so often I'll just use brush-on primer so I can get on with it), I use Dupli-Color Sandable from the auto parts store. It's not too fussy for spray conditions, and I've had no complaints about the nature of the surface or filling in detail or anything like that. For me I mainly use flat TS paint so the dry time is significantly shorter than gloss paints. I only wait 2 min between coats, do all the sanding #1500 as needed between coats and re-spray. For gloss I give it a couple more minutes between coats, and finish with a wet coat for high gloss. I do not use glossy clear coat. Usually, two or three thin coats of Tamiya Surface Primer are all it takes to prepare your models for painting.